I do not think your readers, either in Sydney or the country, have the remotest idea of what Gulgong is at present; for, though knowing somewhat of rushes, I was myself quite astonished when I arrived on Monday on the great gold-field of the Western district. My want of knowledge may be attributed to the meagre accounts that, from time to time, I have read in the press ; and I may here say that, having had ocular demonstration, and experienced myself in the true state of facts, I have come to the conclusion that, by some means or other, a very erroneous estimate has been formed, by people at a distance, of the immense importance of this golden territory. You can take for facts what I shall tell you, and my recollections of other gold-fields, large and small, is sufficiently vivid to enable me to form a pretty just opinion here. I landed in the Gulgong township between 1 and 2 p.m. of Monday, from the buggy of a mercantile friend, who had kindly driven me over from Mudgee; and found quarters at
Tarrant's Tattersall's Hotel, in Herbert-street. There were many people in the streets, and the aspect of the place generally reminded me forcibly of what Forbes was just about the time when the first great golden holes were at work, and a month or two before the height of that Lachlan excitement. The same style of buildings in the shape of public-houses and stores; the same kind of signboards, painted by the self-same hands; the same class of "shepherds" collected in the streets, or in the "bars." All these, of which I had lost sight since the early rush to the Lachlan El dorado, were present to my view as I drove down to mine hostelrie on Monday, and little enough changed since last we met. I soon found a host of old acquaintances, and wasn't long before a programme had been chalked out for showing me round the field and posting me up in its main points of interest. Here, before proceeding into details, I must congratulate you on the popularity of the
Town and Country Journal; everywhere I find it read by miners and business men; and I have to return many thanks to all classes of the population of Gulgong for their kindness in rendering me assistance whenever I needed it. The gold-field has now assumed very large proportions; and from the extent of country precisely similar to that in which the richest gold is being found, there seems every probability of permanence in the working. On all sides of the township leads, or supposed ones, are being worked and shepherded; and as already gold has been discovered in payable quantities on all sides of this centre, there is little fear of anything like a collapse for some time to come. The great attraction is, at present to "
The Black Lead," where the gold is found in large quantities, there being several exceeding rich claims; and here I had a capital opportunity of judging from actual observation, as I was three days present at the washing out of No. 3—so far, the richest claim discovered. The first washing out of this ground averaged 11oz to the load, and what I saw operated upon which was some outside dirt, went about 4oz. The sinking is perfectly dry, and the depth of wash from two to three and a half feet; so that in the large-sized claims now granted (about double what they were at Forbes) twelve or fifteen hundred loads of dirt may be calculated upon. I saw also a washing up from another claim—8 and 9 amalgamated—which was very satisfactory, though not equal to Riordon's, the one already described. Some time since it was though that the gold on this lead ran out at about No. 11 or 12, because the miners had come upon a bluestone rock at a shallow depth; but after going some twenty-five or thirty feet through this, the auriferous deposit has been found below, and the coarse gold is now proved to run on as far as No. 16, the last claim on gold up to the present, and where the prospects taken off the bottom are very good indeed. Since gold has been struck in this claim (16), there has been good traffic in shares lower down, and as far as No. 25 it is considered a good thing to buy ; for I believe there is no doubt that such a run of gold as this on the Black Lead cannot be near its end while it remains coarse, and in such quantities as it is found now. Of course, as the frontage claims block off, block claims are taken up within the previously tabooed parallels; and, altogether, this portion of the field bids fair to last a considerable time, and support a large population. The day I arrived at Gulgong payable gold was struck on the Great Western, which lies on the other side of the township from the Black Lead, on the way to the
Guntawang paddock; and here again, from the look of the country, there should be an extensive and permanent digging. Adams and party after whom Adams's Lead was named, and the original prospectors of the deep ground, are working at the foot of the original diggings, with good success, making a third direction in which gold is being found; and at all the points I have mentioned (except the Great Western, where only the prospectors have gone down) there are many other claims on gold besides those specified above. Three miles on the road to Mudgee is the "Three-mile Rush," where I saw flags flying, indicating that the claims are on payable gold; and at this spot those who are lucky enough to have an interest think themselves well in, as I know from having conversed with many. The "Coming Event," another new lead, runs from the direction of this "Three-mile" towards the lower end of "The Black Lead," and between them lies The Happy Valley; and as the township forms a centre surrounded by the different workings I have named, it will be seen that gold lies all round it. The Coming Event commenced a washing the day before I left ; but I do not know what the result was, neither do I think the owners expected a large return. The last escort of 2800 ounces ought to show that something in the shape of profitable mining is being done; but, of course, as on every other field, there are plenty of men getting nothing. Just at the back of the town, and in fact running down into the two main streets, is a quartz hill, which has been partially worked, but as yet not in a way to test it. Gold has been found both in the surface quartz and by sinking, and though, so far, no defined reef has been discovered, all the miners who have worked the ground feel certain of the existence of one close at hand. Steps were initiated for getting machinery on the ground, but no decisive action has been taken; and as the stone can be carted and crushed a few miles away for £1 a ton, it would seem for the present the better plan not to go to the expense of a battery, while the existence of a reef is uncertain. I did not go to the digging in Mr. Rouse's paddock at Guntawang; but there are about thirty claims being worked there, and about two-thirds are on gold; and when I see that the quartz hill at Gulgong has diffused its gold in all directions from the matrix, and further, that in two of these directions the precious metal is already found three miles away in paying quantity, I feel quite justified in expecting the intermediate country on those sides, as well as that within the same radius on the others, to yield a supply of gold for a very large population. At present the Gulgong field is in its infancy. The description of gold is coarse, waterworn nuggets, with some cement, but very little quartz mixed with it; and it is of the best quality, the banks giving £3 17s an ounce for it on the spot. The price charged by the puddlers is 4s a load, out of which they pay 2s for carting, and some old Forbes acquaintances, whom I found proprietors of the machines where the No. 3 stuff was put through, told me that they did fifty loads a day in the two machines. As I said before, I look for this to be a great gold-field possibly as permanently payable as any other in New South Wales, and that many of the Black Lead claims will yield at the rate of £4000 a man to parties of four, I have no doubt. The look of the wash now being taken out low down the lead gives no reason for thinking that that portion is not as rich as higher up. For putting me in the way of gaining information, I have much to thank Mr. Stacey of the Oriental Bank, and Mr. sub-inspector Medley; and wherever I went, the claimholders gave me all facility, among which latter I must particularly mention the men of No. 3, who were excessively obliging. And so, having thus shortly described the gold-field as it is, I will tell you something of the township of Gulgong. This consists mainly of two streets running at right angles, and within a trifle of north and south and east and west. In one of these—Queen-street, which runs up from what were the original diggings, in the direction of the Quartz Hill, are situated the three banks
Oriental, New South Wales, and Joint Stock; the principal shops (some of which, as I will presently describe, would astonish the ladies and gentlemen who "do George-street"); the theatre, and several hotels. Among these in this street, the principal being those of Messrs. Selfe, Driscolls, and a fine new house now in course of erection by Mr. M. Ward. In "Herbert-street," which runs down from the Quartz Hill to the head of the Black Lead, there are lots of hotels, at the head of which stands "Tattersalls" ; and some stores, among these being conspicuous, the branch of Messrs. Dickson and Son (presided over by Mr. M. Walker), which is close down to the main diggings, well situated, and apparently well stocked. Opposite to Tattersall's, Mr. Coleman, from Brickfield-hill, has a drapery store, and Mrs. Coleman had her window well dressed with really beautiful bonnets. Hereabouts, too, are some fancy shops, where pocket-books, knives, tobacco, and such articles,—luxuries to some, necessaries to others—are supplied at reasonable rates, and of good quality; and it reminded me of old times when I sought the establishment of "Professor Vallou," and treated myself to a "nice easy shave." The time to see Queen-street (some call it Main-street) is at night, crowded for a quarter of a mile with miners, and its shops well lit. Here is Mr. Booth's drapery establishment, which, for the quality of its stock and beauty of its "fixtins," if not for its size, would not be put to shame alongside of Farmer and Painter's. It is excellently lit of an evening; and your Sydney belles might receive cum grano what I could tell them about the beautiful shawls and mantles I saw there. The owners of this fine shop are about erecting another alongside, in which they will keep other descriptions of goods, and it is not too much to say that they are very sanguine of success in this extra spec. Mrs.
Angove, on the opposite side of the way, having been the earliest in the field, has established a good name among the diggers, and is doing a capital general business; in fact, so far as I could judge, I should say the best on the field. There are the usual amount of other stores; but these are the principal; and in the same street Messrs. Sippel, Brothers have a tobacconist's shop on a very creditable scale; while
Mr. Tissington does the photographing business in a manner to gain a good share of support. The hotels of
Mr. Selfe and the two Messrs.
Driscoll do a large amount of business, and do it well, the first named having the leading business of the street; but Mr. Selfe unfortunately sold the corner of his ground, and so spoiled the stand. Had he kept it he might have had the finest bar and premises ever seen on a gold-field. The accommodation at this hotel is really excellent. On the little corner sold by Mr. Selfe,
Mr. Barnes, the chemist, of Mudgee, has put up a branch establishment, which is well fitted up, and stocked with every thing usually seen in such shops; and a most remarkable fact I noticed is, that sundry and divers commodities in every-day use are here to be bought at Sydney prices. Far from the least creditable places in Queen-street are the butchers shops, which for cleanliness and quality of the meat are not to be surpassed in Sydney; and though I saw three, among which is little to choose, I must give the palm to that of Mr. Leggatt. By-the-bye, the beautiful beef I saw comes from Guntawang and Biragambil, the establishments of the
Messrs. Rouse, which I shall describe fully in my next, after having as I hope had a good look at them for myself. If I've left the
Tattersall's of mine host Tarrant till the last, it isn't because it's least in my thoughts, or least in importance on the field. Far from this. Well, I stayed at "Tatt's" of Gulgong, and the only thing I was sorry for was that the landlord hadn't more rooms. I was well lodged, well fed, well waited on. The quality of everything was good. One never rang twice, or was kept waiting for his boots; and while the efforts to please were unremitting, I was quite astonished at the smallness of the charges—moderate anywhere—but absurdly so on a golden rush. The stables of Tattersall's are something to talk of. In my experience of gold-fields in their palmy days (by which, of course, I mean their most crowded), I never saw such stabling; and it really was a treat to see the bedding and forage that were all ready when the nags arrived. I'm not here speaking only of the racing nags, for I've seen lots of such in my time that would have given some thing for such beds to lie on as the buggy horses had at Tattersalls. I've done with the praising of quarters, and sorry for it too; but though I hate finding fault, I can't some times help it. The official arrangements are the most prominent where a large body of miners and business people have to be attended to, and the usual crowd of hangers-on have to be kept in order; and if ever officials had a difficult task imposed on them by the head-quarters, those of Gulgong are they. The police magistrate, as your readers are aware, is also gold-fields commissioner, and performs other duties galore; but strange to say, he has no quarters of any kind. No office wherein to write and receive persons on business; no safe to keep his books in; no court-house in which to hold judicial sittings; but he must work all day, without the least security that on the morrow the records of most important business may not have been appropriated. I was almost inclined to laugh when I saw
Mr. Browne sitting in front of the green drop-curtain of the theatre, with the pianoforte doing duty as a table for him to write on. I believe I should have laughed outright, but that there was a draught coming in at my old friend's back fit to cut him in two, and holes enough were in the roof to have caused drowning in a moderately heavy shower. Positively the state of things is scandalous. Mr. Browne does immense work, and does it well ; the people all have confidence in him, and he has the firmness, the discretion, and the savoir faire to act up to his position; but unless he is allowed the proper conveniences for doing justice to the position and the people equally, the Government can not expect things to go on as well as they hitherto have gone. Quarters are what are wanted, and those in power may rest assured that the work can be well done, and will be also, if the proper facilities are given in the shape of convenience. The police come next, and to the position of the officer in charge the same applies as to deficiency in the quarters. The police barracks are wholly inadequate for the purpose; the men have to eat, and drink, and sleep, and take informations, and registrar brands, in one room; and presently after, you will see the police magistrate hearing a case there, with the plates and dishes on one side, and the office books on the other. The whole thing is absurd. How Mr. Medley has managed to do it is a puzzle which some "aulder mon" than I must solve; for he has not half the police the gold-field should have; and yet a more orderly gold-field I never saw. After going over it carefully, I have no doubt there are 7000 people there, to which are apportioned, I think, about eight policemen all told; and this when the Government are making a fine revenue out of the field, with every probability of a regular increase for some time yet to come. I was quite glad to see how quickly robberies were discovered; but it's only giving a premium to bushrangers to allow the police officer no men for patrols. Nothing is so easy as to draw £1500 a year in Sydney, and fancy Gulgong like the street of George; but those who do this should have some consideration for the man who, on a couple of hundred a year, is answerable for the safety of business people's property among a population of 6000 or 7000 well-intentioned miners, and the usual few hundreds of ill-intentioned followers. But if the Government are short-sighted, what shall I say of the banks? I'll guarantee that some of our Sydney banking chiefs wouldn't keep their horses in such quarters as I saw occupied by Mr. Stewart, of the Joint Stock, while confined to his bed with a very serious attack of colonial fever; and Mr. Stacey, of the Oriental, who has just recovered from a like attack, is no better housed. These gentlemen have on their shoulders all the anxiety inseparable from the safe custody of a thousand or two ounces of gold in a bark hut; and they are liable to all the ills consequent on wet and cold, while looking out day after day and hour after hour for some one coming to ease them of their charge. It isn't as if it took an age to put up a building, for some private individuals have stores built in a marvellously short space of time; but somehow, "out of sight out of mind" seems as natural to Sydney bankers as to Sydney Governments, and nothing is done. This doesn't apply to the New South Wales, for which a good banking-house is going up; and I hope, when next I go to Gulgong to see my other friends in the moneyed interest similarly treated. The place was well off for amusements last week; having, besides others, Ashton's Circus, which drew well; but the great attraction was the Cameron troupe, with young
Allan Cameron, who is really a wonder, as a juvenile singer of characteristic songs, and I should expect would be a great star at your
Prince of Wales Opera-house. His father, who has been so long and favourably known as "The Old Musketeer," has taught his son well; and the youngster is by no means slow to learn, for he sings and acts capitally. The rest of the troupe are good, and take well; and besides these I heard Professor Saunders on the harp, who is quite thrown away at Gulgong. The press seems always left for the last notice at all entertainments; and, in conclusion, I have to compliment an old friend of yours on his success as proprietor of the
Gulgong Guardian. Mr. De Courcy Browne has had long experience of gold-fields, and I was glad to see that in his present capacity he appears to have the confidence of miners, as well as the respect of all other residents. Here, then, I say good-bye to Gulgong, with many thanks for the many kindnesses I received there as the representative of the T. and C. —June 3,1871.